A remote Borneo archipelago famous for green turtles, manta rays at Sangalaki and Kakaban's sting-less jellyfish lake. It ranks among Indonesia's richest reefs after Raja Ampat.
2.28°N 118.24°E
The best diving and calmest seas generally fall in the drier stretch from around April to October
4 nights
BEJ
$20/night
The Derawan Islands sit off the east coast of Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo), a small archipelago that draws divers and snorkelers for its density of marine life. Green turtles graze in the shallows around the jetties, manta rays cruise the channels off Sangalaki, and on Kakaban there is a saltwater lake full of stingless jellyfish you can swim through. The water is warm, the reefs are healthy, and the pace is slow.
This is a place that rewards effort. Getting here takes most of a travel day from any major hub, and the infrastructure is basic: simple guesthouses, overwater bungalows of varying quality, and limited dining. It suits independent travelers who care more about turtles, mantas, and quiet water than about comfort or nightlife. If you want a remote, watery few days and do not mind roughing it, Derawan delivers.
Green turtles are so common around Derawan island that you can often see them from the pier or by slipping in right off the beach. They are used to people and tend to keep feeding while you hover nearby. Keep a respectful distance and never touch or chase them, since this is one of the few places on earth where they are this easy to meet.
Kakaban holds a landlocked saltwater lake where millions of jellyfish have lost their sting over thousands of years of isolation. You snorkel among them harmlessly, which is a strange and gentle experience. The hike over the island ridge to reach the lake is short but slippery, so wear something with grip, and note that sunscreen is discouraged to protect the water.
The waters around Sangalaki are a known cleaning and feeding ground for reef manta rays. On a good day you drift while several mantas glide past at arm's length. Sightings depend on plankton and current, so go with a local boat operator who watches the conditions, and build in a spare day in case the first trip is quiet.
Off the mainland coast near Talisayan, whale sharks gather around the bagan (traditional fishing platforms) to feed on small fish in the nets. Trips leave very early to reach the platforms at dawn when the sharks are most active. It is a longer boat journey, so it usually runs as a dedicated full-day excursion rather than a quick add-on.
Getting there
Plan on most of a day. You fly to Kalimarau airport in Berau (BEJ), usually connecting through Balikpapan and sometimes Jakarta, since there are no direct international flights. From Berau it is a road transfer of roughly two to three hours to the coastal port at Tanjung Batu, followed by a speedboat of around 30 to 45 minutes out to Derawan island. Many guesthouses arrange this whole chain for you, which is worth taking up given the timing and the lack of public options.
Best time to visit
The best diving and calmest seas generally fall in the drier stretch from around April to October, with manta and whale shark sightings varying year to year. Avoid the heart of the wet season (roughly December to February), when stronger winds and rain make boat trips less reliable.
Where to stay
Derawan island has the widest spread of budget and mid-range guesthouses and overwater bungalows, good for independent travelers, with simple rooms often from around 250,000 rupiah and water bungalows higher. Maratua is the choice for a more comfortable, resort-style stay and tends to cost noticeably more, while staying there or on Derawan both work as a base for day trips to the other islands.
Snorkeling is plenty for the headline experiences: turtles, the jellyfish lake, giant clams, and often mantas and whale sharks near the surface. Diving adds the drop-offs and deeper reefs, but you can have a superb trip with just a mask and fins.
Do not count on either. Withdraw enough cash in Berau before you head out, since island ATMs are scarce or absent, and treat the internet and electricity as patchy and sometimes scheduled rather than constant.
Given the long journey in and out, three to four nights on the islands is a sensible minimum. That gives you time for the jellyfish lake, a manta or whale shark trip, and a buffer day in case the weather cancels a boat.
Build a route across Indonesia in minutes. We work out the travel time and cost between every stop, then a local turns it into a trip.
Build your tripMaratua is the largest island in the group and has its own airstrip, dramatic drop-offs, and channels full of barracuda and reef fish. The snorkeling over the sea-grass and giant clams in the shallows is excellent and easy. It is also the most comfortable island to base yourself on if you want a proper resort rather than a backpacker guesthouse.
Sangalaki is an important green turtle nesting beach, and a conservation post on the island monitors the nests. Depending on timing and the rangers, you may see females coming ashore at night or hatchlings being released. Follow the staff's lead, keep lights off the beach, and treat it as a privilege rather than a guaranteed show.
Beyond the wildlife, much of Derawan is about doing very little. Walk the sandy lanes of Derawan village, watch the fishing boats come in, and eat fresh grilled fish as the sun drops. Bring a book and cash, because the islands run on a relaxed rhythm and there is not much else to fill the gaps.
The sights worth building a day around. Open any one for a full guide.
snorkel siteGreen turtles graze on seagrass right off the village jetty, no boat needed.
Read guide
lakeSwim among sting-less jellyfish in a landlocked lake on an uninhabited island.
Read guide
islandA long blue lagoon, overwater bungalows, and reef walls off a horseshoe island.
Read guide
dive siteReef mantas feed in the shallows off Sangalaki, often seen on a single snorkel.
Read guide